Fluff Pet Store at NZX, Ara Damansara

There is a pet store at Ara Damansara that is different from most pet shops around. It is a place where many pet owners call it their second home. Why? It is homey, it feels safe and comfortable. A few dogs roam freely as the pet shop believes that well-behaved dogs should not be caged the whole day.

Fluff Pet Store is a great place to gather, especially since the entire place it is at is pet friendly. Yes, NZX or Nuizexui is a closed bazaar that allows people and their pets in, provided that they are well behaved and on a leash. A few cafes there allow pets too.

How to get there? Here is a map

Fluff is located on the 1st floor, the same row of shops with 100 Degree steamboat.

The friendly relaxed environment is different from those busy pet shops. Here you can get personalized service. Did I mention that the shop also carries sugar glider products? Go on over and check it out. I am usually there once or twice a week to offer FREE glider nail trimming and advice.

From 25 Dec to 31 Dec 2008, Fluff is having a year end sale, with products having up to 25% discount!

Sugar Glider Adoption!

Just like the topic title, there are 3 sugar gliders for adoption from my friend, Reanne.

Here is her message to interested adopters:

My grandfather is moving in with my family due to medical reasons and I am forced to prepare space for him so I have to let go some of my pets to better homes. Terms and conditions apply. Some are with adoption fees and some are FOC, but each adopter MUST provide me with background information such as working/studying what and where, location, schedule, current pets etc.

Adopter must also provide me information about what cage/tank is prepared for them, what diet will they be on, how is the schedule, and last but not least, give me reasons to why you want to adopt the pet. I reserve the right to reject unsuitable candidates or anyone I do not see fit to care for their needs. Exotic pets are not like cats and dogs, they need more time and have more specific needs to their care.

The adoption is not very urgent but I’m not in a hurry to let go of them so expect lots of questions and extensive screening. Do your basic research and if you have any questions feel free to ask. If you CANNOT answer the basic questions like ‘What do they eat?’, you will be REJECTED without question as it proves you have NOT done your homework and therefore are NOT serious in adopting/caring for the animal in question. (I have had ppl call that could not answer this question and expected me to just adopt it to them straight away. Doesn’t make any sense right?

Strict terms and conditions.

1. Selling the adopted animal is not allowed.
2. Breeding the adopted animal is not allowed unless with permission.
3. Please inform me if you can no longer care for the animal and wish to re-adopt it to someone else. Provide me with the contact of the person and some basic info on the next adopter.
4. Harming the adopted animal in any way is definitely not allowed.
5. If the animal dies for any reason or even without any reason, please inform me and if the cause of death is unknown, I will arrange for an autopsy. Store the body in the fridge, not the freezer please.


Type of Pet : One Male sugar glider with adoption fee.

Name : None

Age : No age estimation but adult and been with me for 4 months +

Temperament : Nervous but stones a lot, sometimes he’s like a rock. Crabs somewhat when irritated. Can be tamed with TLC.

Details : Rescued together with Gollum, this boy was also kept in the same conditions but does not have any damage to his face or any other body parts. Now fed a good diet and have not shown any signs of sickness or problems.

Not bred before and should be neutered.


Type of Pet : One Female Sugar Glider with adoption fee.

Name : Tina

Age : No age estimation but adult and been with me for 4 months +

Temperament : Kinda crabby and very nervous but can be tamed with TLC.

Details : Rescued together with Gollum and the other male glider, she was kept in the same conditions and half her nose had been bitten off like Gollum. Same as the other 2, she does not show any sign of sickness or problems. Fed an equally good diet.

Not bred before and recommended not to breed in the future.


Type of Pet : One Female Sugar Glider with adoption fee. STRICTLY NO BREEDING.

Name : Jelly

Age : Roughly 3 years. Has been with me for 7+ months

Temperament : Tame, can bond with time.

Details : She is also a rescued glider but not from the same home as Gollum and the others. She was bought solely as a breeder and couldn’t produce healthy joeys due to lack of nutrition which resulted in the death of both joeys. In the end the owner decided to get rid of her. Her cage was filthy and sticky, reeked of months of pee and poo and mold was growing at the bottom on the cage. She now lives in a clean cage with good food. When I got her she already had 2 joeys IP and the previous owner couldn’t even see it though the lumps were humungous. For some reason I think she cannot nurse the joeys well even with lots of protein and supplements in her diet and abandoned one. Even so, her remaining joey did not grow as big as compared to a normal joey.

She has proven not able to support joeys so she should not be housed with any unneutered male. Female to female pairing or to a neutered male only. Kept singly until bonded is even better.


Reanne is located in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Her contact is 012-6165997. No SMSes, only deal through calls. She tends to be strict with who adopts her pets, so be prepared with information and knowledge about glider keeping. The gliders offered for adoption are STRICTLY not for breeding at all. They are not fit to have joeys and it would be cruel and dreadful for them to breed as it is a risk to their health.

Plastic or Stainless steel?

Which is better? The stainless steel cup or the plastic cup for feeding sugar gliders? Some of us may just use the cups or feeders that comes with the cage for our gliders. Sure, no problem with these feeder cups if we feed only dry food. Since our gliders mainly take fresh food, for hygiene sake, the best to use is a stainless steel cup or bowl.

Plastic cups can easily get stained from certain fruits such as red dragon fruits. Another thing that we must worry is that bacteria can hide in the cracks or scratches in the plastic feeders. Some may say that the bowls can be disinfected, but then is it safe? A disinfectant may be an answer but what if the bowl or cup isn’t washed properly, wouldn’t that be dangerous when a glider ingest it? Stainless steel bowls are easier to wash as you can scrub it clean and douse it with hot water. You can’t do that with plastic as heat from the hot water could cause some reaction to the plastic. I have seen dogs getting skin infections around their mouths due to plastic allergies as well.

Where to get a stainless steel hanging cup? Well, just head on over to the pet store near you that carries products for birds or sugar gliders.

  • Pet Family
  • Pets Wonderland
  • Fluff Pet Store
  • Petsmore
  • Zoological Pet Suppplies

If you can’t get a stainless steel hanging cup/bowl, then you can email me about it. I can get a high quality stainless steel bowl for about RM13, large enough to fit a large orange and this is the best size for 2 gliders.

Travel with your glider buddy.

When we have bonded with our gliders, then we tend to bring them where ever we go. Is that not true? We may carry them in our pockets or inside our shirt or in a pouch if it is just for the day. So in this article, I will touch on a few things about traveling with your glider.

The basic necessity would be to have a bonding pouch. You can make your own, provided that you use the right material such as fleece or any material with no loose threads. I get my bonding pouches from SuggieStuf, all handmade with love by my friend, known as krynzpeaches. These pouches have a mesh for ventilation, a strap with a stopper to go around our neck and a zipper to keep our gliders safely inside the pouches.

When we go out of our home, we should always carry our gliders in their bonding pouches. It is for their own safety as gliders are very curious animals and will try to jump at anything that they feel there is a need to explore. Even my most bonded glider will jump to any tree if I stand next to it for too long.

How about traveling back to hometown or out station? Should you bring along or send to a boarding facility? If the traveling is just for a few days and it has nothing to do with work or business, then bring your gliders along. They would be lonely and depress without you. If you so happen to be on a business trip, have to travel by air or will be backpacking a lot, then I would suggest boarding your glider at a boarding facility or with family or friends. It would be less stressful for the gliders since you won’t have much time for them when you are busy with work or traveling and if traveling by air, it is not wise to sneak a glider into a plane.

If you are traveling with your glider for more than a day, then you will need to have a traveling cage. Why? Gliders do not like to be zipped up in a bag or pouch for too long a period and will try to chew their way out. This would damage the bonding pouches and you will need to spend more money on buying more bonding pouches. Get a cage that is foldable and easy to carry. For gliders that are not chewers, I would recommend getting a Flexarium by Exo Terra. A Flexarium is a lightweight cage, made of PVC and nylon mesh, easy to assemble and saves space. The Flexarium comes in a few sizes, the smallest one would be the most ideal as you can install it in a few moments and it fits perfectly in a car. The Flexarium can be found at Pet Lovers Center(Sunway Pyramid), Pet Safari(Ikano) and also through a few pet shops by placing special orders. The smallest is roughly 2ft and cost below Rm100.

If a Flexarium is hard to come by, then the other best option would be getting a travel cage that is easy to fold away and assemble in a few minutes. I personally use small bird cages. Some websites have suggested hamster cages but those appear to be too small and is not really foldable. Some hamster cages are rather hard to assemble.
It must not be too small, find a cage that is comfortable enough for 2 gliders in a short period. Saw a few of these cages but with pointed roofs for sale at Pet Safari.

So how about food? Well, just pack a few fruits and mealworms with you. Jar babyfood is also ok for traveling, as well as dried organic fruits. Don’t forget their water bottle as well.

GliderYUMMIES will soon be offering travel kits and travel treats in the near future.

My glider bites….. how?

I hear this a number of times. Why do gliders bite? Well, any animal with a face would obviously bite if it is scared, it is an animal’s instinct, their way of protecting themselves. A young joey that in unfamiliar with handling will crab, raise a paw and act like it wants to bite. A joey normally does this when they are extremely scared, they just want to scare you off than to really attack you. Anyway, let me explain the different bites and nips gliders like to give us.

Joey bite

This is by young joeys, 8 weeks OOP…. their bite is usually a sharp prick if they do bite you. Doesn’t draw blood, hurts on a little. Like I explained earlier, joeys would normally do it when they are really scared and before they bite, there is usually a little crabbing. Now a 12 week OOP joey would give a different sort of bite, it would be march sharper, like someone pinching you. Again, it’s all fear. Now gliders are smart and learn quickly. If you show fear when a joey crabs and bite you, it will remember that you are scared of these actions and sounds and as it becomes and adult, it will just keep crabbing and biting you.

A contented glider gnaw

Sugar gliders often like to groom one another when they are happy or contented. Sometimes while your glider is sitting on your shoulder or head, you would feel an annoying scratch beginning and from just being annoying it can become a bit painful. Relax, your glider is not trying to eat you, it is just grooming you. They would use their teeth to scrape another glider’s fur but since we do not have fur, it’s direct skin so it can be a bit painful. It’s like someone using a fork scraping our skin. And be happy about it too cause it shows that your glider enjoys you and has bonded pretty well. Of course when it is too painful, just push your glider to another spot or offer a treat to distract it.
Finger nibbling

I actually have a few gliders that like to finger nibble. It has a few reasons. Gliders see us as food givers, we provide them with yummy treats so it is only natural for them to try and nibble our fingers to see if we have anything for them to eat. Another would be that we may have some scent of food or residue on our fingers and the enticing smell and taste may cause a glider to nibble out of curiousity. So just wash your hands and give a little food, it mostly would stop.

A warning Nip

Nipping is normal for even tame gliders. It is where a glider takes a sort of like a bite at you but it doesn’t cause any wound or draw any blood. It just gives you a sudden pressure on your finger, like someone using a toothpick to prick you. My gliders normally nip when I handle them in an uncomfortable way or I am picking them up at the wrong timing. This kind of nip is just to warn you that you are doing something wrong or uncomfortable to them. My gliders would nip when they are handled too often too, a sign that tells me it is time for them to rest. When a glider becomes really annoyed, the nip can be slightly more painful than usual, so don’t panic but just let your glider calm down for a moment, then proceed to pick it up or handle it with more care.

An angry bite

Now this happens to protective gliders and untame or unfriendly gliders. Can’t blame them for doing what is natural. I often get bitten by my breeding adults, particularly the males as they are being protective. What I do is just act normally, make a hissing sound and proceed with what I’m doing to their cage. Puncture wounds are normal when a glider bites you hard. With untame or protective adults, it is always wise NEVER to offer our fingers. The best way is to hold your hand into a fist and let them smell the back of your hand. If it does bite, it cannot grab hold of your skin or fleshy parts so it is quite safe.

Just remember a few tips when you bring home a new joey or glider, never offer your finger to it’s face. Never do sudden fast movements and never scare it with your hands. Gliders need to learn to trust you and feel safe in your hands and presence. So treat it with TLC.

A great online pet store in Malaysia!

This new online pet store have started selling a wide range of small animal products. I have personally purchased a few items from this online pet store and it is very efficient. Goods come clean and in good condition.

Chubby Pets Garden also has a small range of products specially for gliders. The polar fleece pouches and cage accessories are just great for gliders that are kept in air conditioned rooms. Perfect warm cozy sleeping pouches. There are also play tunnels, chinchilla toys and bird toys that gliders can use.

That is only a small part, the best part is that they have Gliderade, Pure Acacia Gum and Pure Bee Pollen for sale right to your door step! Gliderade is a great supplement widely used overseas for the health of sugar gliders, Acacia gum provides gliders a natural but high quality carbohydrate that is healthier than honey and Bee pollen has the essential vitamins and minerals a glider can benefit from.

How to introduce 2 gliders

Some people have been asking me how to introduce 2 gliders properly. There are a few ways. Normally joeys or gliders younger than 5 months OOP are easier to introduce, there is less chance of frighting.

Some people would use the old “toss and let it be” thing, which is to place the new glider straight away with the current glider in the current glider’s cage. Now this is terribly risky. If you are lucky, everything will turn out well but if a fight does happen, then the gliders will be tumbling about chasing and biting each other’s backs and rump. So how to do it the right way?

Here are a few tips:

  1. Have 2 cages. Each glider should have their own cage and it should be kept in the same room so they can smell each other’s scent. Soon they will try to communicate a bit. Let the cages stand about 3ft to 4ft apart first and let this go on for 3 days.
  2. Next, move the cages side by side to 6 inches apart. Let them get used to their cages being closed to one another and again, getting familiar with each other’s scent.
  3. 4 days later, start with exchanging sleeping pouches and whatever toys that are in their cages. Switching their stuff would make them get used to each other’s scent faster. This switching should be done everyday. I would continue this for about 4 to 5 days.
  4. Once the gliders have gotten used to each other’s scent, then move on to neutral ground introduction. How does this go? Well, just take both your gliders to a place where none have ever roamed in, for example, a bathroom with the window and toilet closed, or someone’s study room. Let them check each other out. A lot of sniffing and clicking will take place. If all goes well, then the gliders would just go about investigating each other. Let this neutral meeting take as long as a week. If fighting occurs, then put them back in their cages and repeat Step 3 again. You can even exchange bonding pouches as well.
  5. Once the gliders show no sign of aggression in a neutral place, then proceed to try them out in a single cage. First, take one of the cages and give a good washing and scrubbing to get rid of territorial markings. Then remove toys, bonding pouches and feeding bowls. Let the gliders stay in the empty cage together for a few hours with you watching. Repeat this for 3 days.
  6. If all goes well, then the pouches and food bowls can be included into the cage but place 2 pouches inside to be sure. The gliders are ready for a night together. You still have to monitor, make sure they do not fight. When 2 gliders are sleeping together in 1 sleeping pouch, then you can take the extra one away.

For young joeys, it takes a shorter time. Some joeys get along very well in the 1st neutral meeting, some would act tough, swipe their paw a bit and crab at the new comer but it would be ok after a while.

It would be different for an older glider to a joey. Some adults are friendly and would not mind a younger glider friend. Firstly, try the neutral introduction step, and if it fails, then proceed with my 6 steps for introducing 2 gliders.

Each glider can be different, some will instantly bond with the new glider (I have had several successful pairs) while some just cannot get along in a short period. So do not give up, just keep on trying and your gliders will get along fine.